yullis - surry hills

Requests for Messina from gelato-hungry friends book-end nearly every one of my meals these days. Ever since the Darlinghurst institution expanded to a new site in Surry Hills this year gelato has been a frequent remedy to sooth the summer sweats. But no, this is not a Messina-based feature, heaped with creamy descriptions of fanciful specials of the week. This blog entry is focused on Yulli’s, which is soaking up the lime light  a quick dance down the street from the Surry Hills Prom Queen. A vegetarian filled menu is a big draw card for the youth of today who seem to have contracted every kind of food intolerance and activist stance which prevents us from meat-munching. Fools. Whilst I hate indulging these silly fad fetishes, meat-less cooking is often innovative and deeply flavourful. So, promising myself a steak for dinner tomorrow, I swallowed my pride and donned my hemp frock, ready to attack some vegetation.

An obvious first stop over on the path to ethical enlightenment is Thailand – so many rich herbs and spices has incentivised the creation of strong vege flavours. Gorgeous Thai-like offerings, named Krathong Thongon ($13.50), are chilli-wafer discs carrying a brightly coloured array of grains and leaves. There are pearls of barley and peas,infused with Asian flavours from the coriander, ginger and chilli.

Krathong Thongon ($13.50)

The menu undulates between Asian- and Italian-inspired cuisines which can confuse the palate. We take the mis-step of ordering the food that our tummies growled for, without considering the resulting incongruence in flavours. This is demonstrated in our Krathong being followed by Arrancini balls ($12.50). The balls comply with the textural code of conduct, their crisp skin enclosing a smooth rich filling of artichoke and goats curd. Not suitable for my friends who have woken up today feeling lactose-intolerant. It’s okay, we tolerate your type here. To balance the intensity of the Arancini is a side slaw of beetroot, cabbage and some pickled carrot.

Artichoke and goat's curd arrancini ($12.50)

Steamed dumplings ($12.50) smack me with a heavy hit of ginger, rendering my tongue only able to feel the soft texture of the leek, but not the taste. The filling of leek is satiating but I’m left longing for the pork and chive dumplings round the corner at Missy K’s. A Vietnamese crepe ($16.50) is tasty but resembles an overstuffed turducken [stay tuned for more turducken-related posts shortly!], with the slovenly mix of vegies and sauce overpowering the pure flavours of the base ingredients.

Steamed leek and ginger dumplings ($12.50)

Vietnamese crepe ($16.50)

Taking the Concord across the globe we slice up a porcini mushroom and haloumi pizza ($16.50). The haloumi is miraculously melted in pools across the pizza resembling mozzarella. It’s enjoyable, but when I order haloumi I’m after that distinctive bouncy texture and salty taste, which is not present here.

 Yulli’s is encouragingly busy mid-week and the large open window provides the perfect scene-scape to enjoy while you eat. Whether you’re watching them with envy or disdain, there’s nothing more entertaining than Surry Hills Groovesters. At Yulli’s, the food is tasty, despite the few dishes which simply felt like amateur vego-spin on a traditionally meat loving dish. Vegetarian food is best when it doesn’t try to emulate the distinctive texture of meat and rather assumes its own personality. Here, the personality is somewhat split, but nonetheless, likeable. Just don’t let the smug passers-by with their two scoop Messina cones distract you from Yulli’s own worthy treats. 

Yullis Bar
417 Crown Street. Surry Hills
t: 9319 6609
e: info@yullis.com.au
http://yullis.com.au/

Photos by Hayley Peterson-Connor