the bucket list - bondi beach

the other day, we were on dad-minding duty. long-time couples seem to be at a loss when their partners go away, both emotionally and organisationally.  this was the case with my dad (known to his loved ones as pad) when his wife went away so we invited him to lunch. it’s always a challenge convincing the approaching-elderly to roam outside their suburban comfort zones, but they’re invariably chattering on the way home about how dramatically places have changed and how nice it is to see so many young people out and about.

it was a nice day so we took pad down to bondi beach to last summer’s ‘be seen’ beachside drinking hole – the bucket list. initially established as a pop-up bar for the ‘11-‘12 summer season only, the boys behind fringe bar made such a killing in the old nick’s pizzeria site that they’ve put down more permanent roots.

the real estate is prime. occupying one of the three or so titles at the bondi pavilion, the bucket list is within salt-spray distance of the waves, giving courtyard loungers unequalled nose-bleed views of surfers shredding and beach bodies bathing. inside is huge, with two bars, long tables and interesting art, lauded over by a tyre sculpture of a giant tortoise of ‘sculptures by the sea’ fame.

the outdoor area is populated by miss-matched furniture, long tables, beach umbrellas and stools made from torn up wooden pallets. it’s the perfect spot to soak up rays, stare at the beach and get distracted by barely-dressed beach walkers such as… but wait, who’s that? pad’s arrived wearing jeans, no shirt and an old-dude hat that, upon the brow of a younger boy, would be devastatingly hip. pad vaults over furniture to land in a reclined position on the comfiest available couch, proclaims that we’re sharing dishes - his shout - and settles into a discussion about investments. old guys rule!

the menu is vast so we’re able to pick a selection of dishes that is summery and refreshing on this bright autumn day, but also rich, warm and soothing for when a rogue cloud casts its likeness over the beach. we order at the bar, take a number, then settle in for a more than pleasant wait in the sun…

first to come out is a salad of kingfish sashimi. the greens are fresh and crisp and the citrus dressing is tart, complementing the sweet slices of fish. we’re pleasantly surprised by a crushed nut crumb on top of the fish which brings texture and a touch of oil and tastes fantastic. the rest of our order comes all at once and has trouble finding a spot on the tiny barrel that’s fashioned itself as our table. thick slices of fat-rimmed, slow cooked pork shoulder are tossed with an attractive array of zucchini and radicchio. quinoa (this year’s coolest south american new kid) and pomegranate seeds add crunch and juice.

slow roasted pork shoulder w/ radicchio and zucchini salas

on the more autumnal side of things we have a braised beef short rib hot pot with heirloom (read: little) carrots and barley. the winner here is the stock lurking at the bottom of the heavy pot which is so yummy to scoop up along with the chewy barely once the rich (perhaps too fatty) ribs are digesting. last but far-from least was a side of fried brussels sprouts with hazelnuts. an inspired combo! the oils in the nuts accentuate the butteriness in the sprouts and have us mmmm-ing after every bite.

braised beef short rib w/ heirloom carrots

for dessert, again we choose to straddle seasons, with a poached quince crumble and vanilla ice cream. not the most inspired version of this autumn menu staple, but still spicy and comforting without being heavy. no cheers, but no gripes either.

chef tom walton (ex-bistro moncur) has moved seamlessly from serving woolhara’s glitterati to bondi’s boho beach babes. and why not when the only difference between these distinguished social groups is a pair of ray bans and greater proximity to the ocean? his pub-munching fare is perfectly suited to the environs and we’re certain that a passing bucket of crispy queensland tiger prawns would taste even better with a brew.

we’ll be back at night, having ditched the old dude, armed with our drinking hats and a handful of one-liners to chat-up the stupidly attractive wait staff.


the bucket list
shop 01, queen elizabeth drive, bondi pavilion, bondi 
p: 9365 4122
http://thebucketlistbondi.com/

blancmange - petersham

in an attempt to build my oenological knowledge - and therefore legitimacy as a food blogger - i have completed a wine education course. five weeks of delicious, continuously flowing wines, and a 5-course deg to finish with finely selected pairings. at $150 this is a right bargain. the guys from annandale cellars [consider linking to Annandale cellars website] offer this course in the hope of inducing amateurs like myself into their world of wine (and into their store). they also seek to establish themselves as a wealth of viticulturist knowledge and first point of call if we ever need help picking out a bottle (or case) in the future. 

the wine tasting course, including the final dinner, is kindly hosted at blancmange restaurant. there is much discussion of the true pronunciation of the name bləˈmɒnʒ, bləˈmɑːndʒ,or the french pronounciation blɑ̃mɑ̃ʒe (phoentic representations kindly borrowed from wiki). on the final evening, we are dropped at the front door, ready to drown ourselves in fine alcoholic beverages and gorge on what's predicted to be an  ɑ̃mɑ̃ʒe-ing feast.

to start, a glass of moussamoussettes (muscatdo), vin de france made from cabernet franc grapes. the aperitif has a beautifully soft fizz and light acidity- a smooth welcome to the evening’s festivities. 

entree is a salad of fresh figs, hazelnuts, goat’s curd and spinach, drizzled with a gorgeous honey dressing. the figs are some of the best i've tasted this season and the goat’s curd is sensually creamy. i only wish there was more on my plate. to match, we are offered ‘the yard’, sauvignon blanc from pemberton, wa. the wine lives up to its touted reputation as the perfect pairing with goats curd, refreshing our palettes between each bite. 

figs w/ hazelnuts, goat's curd, spinach and honey dressing

next are seared scallops with celeriac puree and crispy speck. as one diner rightly points out, seafood and pork is always a winning combination, and no less tonight. the innovative touch of the fried, perhaps tempura brussels sprout leaves is a playful accompaniment to the other proteins. i was one of the only kids in our family who loved their brussels sprouts, my grandfather cooked them for us by the crateful much to the other grandkid's terror. these crisp delicate leaves are a far departure from the regular serving of stodgy, over-boiled sprouts, so much so that i bet even my cousins would devour them. 

scallops w/ celeraic puree, crispy speck and brussel sprout leaves

our first main is deep sea bream, served atop of stew of braised capsicum, fennel and saffron kipfler potatoes. the potatoes are exquisitely tourned (a french technique of shaping potatoes), showcasing the high calibre of chefs in the kitchen. the stew is well balanced and complements the meaty bream. we drink with this a rose domaine de rimauresq, cru classe cotes de provence and gamay from mornington. i really enjoyed the gamay, reminding me of a lighter and fresher version of pinot, but still very flavourful. 

  

and the course keep coming… as my stomach approaches bursting point, we are served braised beef cheeks with soft polenta cime-di-rapa (an italian bitter green) and horseradish. i’m yet to be taken by polenta, but this specimen is beautiful with the softly-tender beef cheeks. the horseradish is an interesting accompaniment and  excites my palate, but ultimately a little too much for me combined with the bitterness of the cime-di-rapa. we drink a full-bodied barolo, the strong tannins marrying harmoniously with the richness of the slow-cooked cheeks.

to finish (thank goodness) an 18 month english cheddar served with green tomato chutney. the cheese is rich and crumbles onto your tongue where it dissolves into a nutty creaminess. to accompany we drink one of the most indulgent and delicious beverages known to man - pedro ximinez (cue another argument about pronunciation). i'm lubricated enough by this stage to repeat the sultry name over and over again in my ridiculously poor spanish accent 'pedrooh hhhgggimenethhh'. fortunately everyone else at the table is too engaged with the drink and plate in front of them to take notice of my drunken antics. 

english cheddar w/ green tomato chutney

our sommelier has brought us a special treat to conclude the evening. fortified grenache - paired with a gorgeously thick chocolate truffle. combined, it’s like the best cherry ripe on earth - the perfectly over-the-top end to what has been a ridiculous gastronomic and viticultural adventure! 

chocolate truffle, accompanied by fortified grenache

bashful of our gluttony, we say goodbye to our new wine-wanking friends and sneak out the door. debate about the pronouncing of blancmange continues, but we're all in agreement that tonight's food and wine whilst excessive in quantity (i don't believe i've ever drunk 12 different wines in a night), was sublime in taste. we will be back, blancmange! hopefully you can settle our feud and stomachs once more.

annandale cellars wine education course: http://www.annandalecellars.com.au/templates/annandale_content.aspx?pageID=420

blancmange
1 station street, petersham
p: 9568 4644
http://restaurantblancmange.com.au/

orto trading company - surry hills

just around the corner from waterloo street, where orto trading company resides, a house has just sold on cooper street. i know this because a friend tried and failed to buy it. i’m told the house had a marvellous kitchen. but be warned, new owner of the cooper st house, your kitchen is doomed to be rendered useless because you have orto trading company as your neighbour, and boy, do they do good grub!

orto’s dining room is like the cover photo of a design picture book. floor-to-ceiling glass walls extend across two sides of the restaurant, which is no mean feat given that the ceilings are at least 5 metres above my head. the room is flooded with natural light, flowing through to the open-ish kitchen at the back. there’s a soft hum of crockery colliding, stoves sizzling and barristers buzzing. quaint jars of fresh flowers on each table encapsulates the vibrant atmosphere effortlessly at home in the relaxed, wholesome dining arena. 

today we are breaking fast bright and (very) early. my company orders a couple of coffees for a good-morning jolt, which come out quickly and are, by all reports, delicious. i mention to the table that there are breakfast cocktails on the menu, but the mere comment is met with disapproving looks. my friends are more opposed than i to feeding their fledging addictions pre-noon. I instead decide to take a fresh orange, apple and strawberry juice, hoping in vane that the moral ‘rightness’ of my choice will make up for the lack of booze. luckily, my credibility is restored when the table collectively 'ooooo’s at my juice, whose brilliant pastel hues illuminate the morning.  

orange, apple and strawberry juice

 as we wait for our food, orto begins to fill with an eclectic mix of fellow feasters. eye-gazing couples and large gatherings of old friends alike populate the room and the surrounding courtyard, despite the autumn chill. otro is perfect for big groups - especially its everything-in-the-middle-style dinner menu. and you can book! 

for brekky, our hipster-chic waitress delivers the ravishing goods with the requisite cool-kid apathy. for the indecisive types or those wanting a bit of everything, the breakfast platter is ideal (and apparently finding its way onto a number of breakfast menus across town). touched up with pretty purple flowers, the platter includes a soft boiled egg, sourdough soldiers, poached fruit with museli and, my favourite, baked ricotta with honey (the housemade pork and sage sausage in the photo was an optional addition). the platter is gorgeously arranged and i spend long enough photographing to earn no small amount of ire from my partner.

breakfast platter (w a side of snags)

two members of our table choose baked eggs w sobrassada, capsicum, fior de latte and cherry tomatoes, and it’s an easy win. and why not when the sobrassada is rich and gooey with just a touch of heat? i slather the egg mixture onto the warm sourdough rolls, trying to avoid (but secretly enjoying) making a serious mess of the table and my top. i think I would have preferred less fior de latte - the texture and taste overpowered the other elements of the dish – but in retrospect, it seems a fairly meek gripe when both pots of baked eggs are wiped clean!

baked eggs w sobrassada, capsicum, fior de latte and cherry tomatoes

i cleverly (and generously) suggest to share breakfast with my friend who indulges in orto's house made waffles which are as pretty as orto itself.  the two plate-sized waffles are pressed with a floral pattern, topped with figs and walnuts and served with a cutsey mug of maple syrup. they’re nicely crisp and airy and we devour them without delay. jealousy abounds as bite-for-bite bartering power is heavily in my favour.

orto's house made waffles

my friends have been here for dinner and they raved and raved about the rich, comforting fare, much of which consists of new takes on english classics [rarebit, scotch eggs, bangers and mash]. and the lunch menu, torturingly on the same page as the breakfast, has enough tummy-rumblers to ensure that i’ll be back again this season.

for the new residents of cooper street, don't bother buying kitchen appliances. without doubt, orto will become your new local, and i’m deeply envious of the fact.


orto trading co.
38 waterloo street, surry hills
p: 0431 212 453
http://www.ortotradingco.com.au/

the fern - redfern

it’s a cold autumn night as i approach the fern, the shining signpost directing me off pitt street; a tree-lined redfern sanctuary, only steps from cleveland and yet perfectly suburban. i shuffle through the narrow door, emerging into a warm dining room which oozes soul. the style is bric-a-brac chic which creates a super cool atmosphere without sacrificing comfort. this could easily be your artsy mate’s living room. mis-matched portraits give each section of wall its own identity while over the bar hangs a mishmash of drinking receptacles and mixologist’s tools. a friendly waiter offers me a choice of seat: either at one of the assorted vintage chairs near the entrance or in the cosier booths at the back. i prefer the intensity of the music and warmth at the front of shop, so i take the central table – the one closest to the bar.

a gruelling day at work has me itching for a drink and the enticing array of drink ingredients draws me inexorably to the cocktail list. i opt for a persephone – sparkling wine, pear, apple and rhubarb puree. the fluted drink has a pretty orange hue and tastes light, exciting and (expectedly) quite sweet. i can’t stop sipping, but it feels more like a dessert, and perhaps is not the wisest choice of aperitif. perhaps, the ferna rossa, consisting of aperol, burnt orange and vanilla syrup, grapefruit and lemon juice would have been a more appropriate pre-meal tipple. it’s a negroni-esque delight, sweeter than its classic italian grandparent but more suited to my taste. this is a perfect introduction to the classic negroni, for those needing to develop their bitter tooth.

food-wise, everything on the menu sounds just right so my dining partner and i predictably choose the 7-course degustation ($49pp) trusting in the "chef to create the perfect dining experience".

the first course of pickles (baby carrots, zucchini, brussell sprouts, cauliflower, onions) and olives arrives without pause and is beautiful to behold, but less so to consume. the pickling agent is applied too strongly for this quantity of vege and becomes unpleasantly harsh by the third or forth bite. a more restrained diner might consider saving one or two to eat with the subsequent courses, but be wary of the acidity’s dulling effect on the palate.

pickles and olives

the next course is four still-warm slices of (what must be homemade) olive bread, quickly followed by cuban-style corn with homemade white cheese and jalapeno and garlic butter. i'm not positively disposed to mild, white south american-style cheese but the slightly spicy, richly-buttered corn is just right, and fun to crunch on. it’s been all finger food so far, which my neanderthal dining partner particular enjoys. 

cuban style corn w white cheese, jalapeno and garlic butter

the courses continue coming faster than we can chew. next up are wagyu oxtail empanadas w pico de gallo - a tomato salsa with coriander and spanish onion. my partner says they have a distinct asian flavour, although that’s perhaps attributable to the fried wanton wrappers encasing the ox-tail in place of the traditional baked butter pastry. the meaty pockets are good but nothing to celebrate, perhaps a tad on the greasy side. following, the homemade falafels are pocketed in doughy pita bread with tomato, lettuce and a garlicy aioli. the flavours are sound but unexciting, however the soft pita and crunchy lettuce and falafel create a textural play that’s fun and comforting. with knife and fork still clean (and fingers filthy!) we’re enjoying ourselves immensely despite the hit-and-miss flavours.

as it turns out, the kitchen was just warming up with the finger food with the main and dessert forming the highlights of the evening. the degustation allows you a choice of three mains covering pig, pasta and fish. we choose the pan-seared barramundi fillet, languishing on a viscous bath of cauliflower puree, spiked with little radish wedges and snow pea halves. the crispy radishes rolled around in the gorgeously soft puree are incredible and all too reminiscent of the much-adored breakfast radishes in dashi butter from duke bistro. we don’t hold this against the fern – how can you begrudge a copycat when they’re this successful?

for dessert its churros in dulce de leche foam and pistachios. i learn that dulce de leche is a south american spread made from reduced condensed milk, often heaped on toast where the french might slop nutella for breakfast. the pinnacle of the evening, the churros are well fried - crispy on the outside and perfectly chewy on the inside (and eaten by hand!). the dulce de leche a foam is an easy winner (condensed milk – ‘nuff said) and we only wish we could get more of it in every bite. 

  

the meal finishes on a high, but it was definitely a very slow start (excluding cocktails). if each of the starters had its own touch of cauliflower puree or dulce de leche magic the fern would be high on my must-try list. as it stands however, it’s only a couple of dishes and drinks over which we’re exclaiming in the car trip home.

the fern gets ten points for concept. it’s a cosy, trendy, drink-friendly venue and menu, with the latter perhaps less successfully executed than the former. i’ve heard the sandwiches and burgers  are great and so i’ll definitely be back for some before-dark, finger-lickin’ fun.

missy ks - surry hills

there are only a few things that will drag me off my couch once i've settled on a night in. and dumplings are one of them. in the adorned postcode of 2010, on fitzroy street sits a matchbox sized dumpling house named missy ks. this miniature sized venue also serves up a thai-asian fusion mix of rice, stir-fry and curry dishes. the plethora of dumpling fillings satisfy even those of us eating kosher tonight. 


we choose the special snowpea and crab and the classic chicken and shitake dumplings. the crab dumplings come in a more translucent dough which breaks apart as soon as i pick it up with my chopsticks, but the filling is tasty nonetheless. we both prefer the chicken and shitake dumplings, the minced filling and a little soup encased in sturdier dumpling wrappers. 

the special of stir fried hand-made shangai noodles is a fine example of how missy ks does simple asian food well. the noodles are thick, inter-tangled with a generous serving of vegies and several slices of beef. i really enjoy the dish, though my partner complains that it's a bit too oily for his liking. i think he may have mistaken the asian flavoured sauce for oil and i continue to slurp down the noodles happily. 

missy ks is 2010's share of the revered dumpling houses in chinatown and chatty. whilst it doesn't boast the size of the enormous 4fourteen venue across the road, it does boast delicious fare and is well worth the tight squeeze. 


missy ks is byo. 

old street - redfern

hovering on the wrong side of abercrombie st like a frustrated child undeservingly exiled to time-out, old street café barely draws a glance from the hurrying sydney uni students on their way to class from redfern station. the five or so other cafes on this coveted commuter’s strip bustle with hungry studiers and hipsters dripping with cool. old street sits quietly, aloof on the not-so-sunny side of the road, unassumingly crafting delicious, affordable meals for those who dare to tread the road not taken.

the interior is simple with walls unadorned other than by a handful of old French ad-posters, a specials blackboard and a pin-ups spruiking local gigs. but cute touches like the million and one vintage teaspoons which double as wall hangings and tea stirrers are hard not to smile at.

the menu is short and sweet – staples for breakfast and sandwiches for lunch – augmented by a daily spattering of cooked-off-site pastries and treats. the chef and owner crafts each dish on the tiny counter while you watch. Service can be a touch slow at times but the love with which ‘wich ingredients are sourced, screened, then stacked high and proud on perfectly toasted sourdough more than make up for any delay.

i’ve had breakfast here before. the avocado on toast is the most picture perfect example i’ve experienced, with each slice of soft, green avo aligned with precision upon a huge slice of toast, drizzled with house-infused lemon oil and topped with a perfectly poached egg [on my request]. this is the tastiest avocado i’ve had in ages. the croque madame is an elegant mess of gruyere, prosciutto, tomato and a fried egg – rich, crunchy and delicious – but even so, improved immeasurably be a tart tomato relish.

for lunch it's hard to go past the classic reuben sandwich – proudly poised at the helm of the printed menu and the sole-tenant of the specials board. thin-cut pastrami tucked in by a rich slice of melted cheddar and shaved sweet 'n' sour-kraut. it’s simple and soothing on a cold day and comes with a crisp pickled cucumber for added crunch value. the salad today is the autumn menu hanger-on - beetroot, feta and walnut salad, this time with the welcomed addition of crispy snowpeas. the ingredients are fresh and delicious but not enough to wow us after the previous 99 beetroot and feta salads so far this season. the salad is $10.50 topped with poached chicken, $8.50 without. 

unadorned, unpretentious and largely unloved, old street is the left out cousin on the abercrombie strip. but like most kids, its childish missteps are happily forgiven in light of the smiles it brings.

the reuben